Cycad care guide
Caring for a cycad
Use Menu in the top corner for everything else.
Cycad care guide
Choosing and keeping a cycad
Cycads are slow, long-lived and unforgiving of wet feet. Get the soil, light and paperwork right and a plant will outlive you. This guide covers what a first-time buyer needs to know, then compares the species traded most often in South Africa by mature size, growth rate and indicative price.
Complete care guide
1. Soil, drainage and planting depthCycads have a spongy, starch-filled stem and cannot seal wounds with bark like trees. Most cycad deaths in South Africa come from root rot caused by wet soil, planting too deep, planting a fresh cut, or untreated insect damage. Their special coralloid roots (knobbly roots near the surface that hold nitrogen-fixing bacteria) need oxygen — in waterlogged soil they rot within 48–72 hours and rot fungi such as Phytophthora move in.
Soil mixes by stage
Seedling trays and germination
Mix
50% coarse washed silica sand (1–2 mm), 30% perlite or fine pumice, 20% fine composted pine bark (sieved 3 mm).
Why it works
Very airy with no sludge. Young roots need oxygen above all, and the mix is free of weed seed and damping-off fungi.
Nursery bags and pots (most Encephalartos)
Mix
40% coarse washed river sand (2–4 mm), 25% 6 mm quartzite or granite chip, 25% composted pine bark (6–12 mm), 10% sieved mature compost or worm castings.
Why it works
Water poured on top should run out of the base holes within 5–10 seconds. Does not pack down over the years.
Large specimens and drums (stem over 35 cm)
Mix
50% coarse silica grit and crushed granite (6–10 mm), 30% coarse pine bark nuggets (12–18 mm), 20% loam or sieved compost.
Why it works
Organic soil breaks down into fine silt after about 3 years; heavy stone keeps permanent air channels.
Garden beds (Highveld and in the ground)
Mix
Build mounded beds 300–500 mm above the surrounding ground. Mix about 50% coarse sand or grit into the topsoil.
Why it works
Prevents the 'clay bucket': a hole dug in clay fills with water in summer rain and drowns the roots.
Never use
- Plaster sand, pit sand or builder's sand — the fine clay and silt pack rock-hard like mortar and suffocate roots.
- Water-retaining crystals or gels, or peat-heavy bagged potting soil — they hold stale water around the base of the stem and invite collar rot.
- Garden clay in pots, pots without drainage holes, or saucers left full of water.
Planting depth
- Never bury the stem. The point where stem meets roots should sit slightly proud — about 25–40 mm above the soil. A buried stem is the number-one cause of sudden death after planting.
- Keep mulch and stone chip off the stem; a ring of coarse gravel around it keeps the base dry.
- Dig the hole at least twice as wide as the root ball and loosen the sides.
- Rockeries and slopes are ideal because water drains away from the stem.
- Aim for neutral to slightly acid soil (pH about 6–7). Strongly alkaline soil locks up iron and manganese.
- Most cycads survive standing in floodwater for only half a day to a day before roots, stem tips and new leaves start to die. In flood-prone spots, plant on the highest ground or on a mound.
2. Sun, light and positionSouth African cycads come from places as different as baking Karoo ravines and misty coastal gorges. Wrong light is serious: sun lovers in shade grow long, weak leaves and lose their blue wax; shade lovers in hot afternoon sun bleach and burn permanently.
Light needs by group
Blue and silver dry-country species (thick wax, stiff spiny leaflets)
Example species
E. horridus, E. lehmannii, E. trispinosus, E. princeps, E. middelburgensis, E. nubimontanus
Best light
Full sun, 8+ hours a day. Thrives against warm walls, rockeries and paving. Heat deepens the blue.
If placed wrongly
In shade new leaves turn dull green, stalks stretch and flop and plants stop coning. Damp crowns invite fungus.
Broad-leaved green forest and coastal species
Example species
E. altensteinii, E. natalensis, E. woodii, E. transvenosus, E. whitelockii
Best light
Morning sun and afternoon shade, or filtered light. Full sun is fine in cool coastal mist belts.
If placed wrongly
Harsh inland afternoon sun (about 13:00–16:00 on the Highveld and Bushveld) scorches leaflets brown.
Forest-floor species (underground stem, soft leaves)
Example species
E. villosus, Stangeria eriopus
Best light
Bright dappled shade to full shade — under trees, patio overhangs, shaded courtyards.
If placed wrongly
Direct midday sun can collapse the leaves within a day. Never plant in open sun.
Mountain grassland species (woolly crown, narrow rolled leaflets)
Example species
E. ghellinckii, E. lanatus, E. cycadifolius, E. friderici-guilielmi
Best light
Full sun with plenty of wind and air movement. Very frost hardy (to about –6°C). Need rocky, scree-like drainage.
If placed wrongly
Still, humid shade causes crown rot and heavy scale.
Which way the bed faces (southern hemisphere)
- North-facing: warmest, with sun all year. Best for blue species and for frost-tender species such as E. ferox on the Highveld — a brick wall stores daytime heat through freezing nights.
- East-facing: gentle morning sun, shade in the heat of the day. Ideal for green and coastal species.
- West-facing: the harshest afternoon heat. Only for tough, sun-hardened species, or add a windbreak.
- South-facing: coldest, with no direct winter sun and soil that stays damp. Keep this for E. villosus and Stangeria only.
Hardening off a nursery plant
- Plants from a shadehouse must never go straight into full sun — even blue species grown under shade cloth burn badly.
- Move them over 4–6 weeks: start in about 50% shade, then morning sun for 2 weeks, then full sun.
- Burnt leaves do not recover; if bleached patches appear, step back a stage.
3. Watering and feedingWater deeply, then let the mix dry before watering again. Cycads store water in their stems and survive drought far better than overwatering.
Watering
- Soak deeply until water runs freely from the drainage holes, then wait until the top 50–75 mm is dry. Frequent light sprinkling keeps the stem base wet while the deep roots go thirsty.
- Summer growing season (October–March): about every 7–10 days for pots.
- Winter rest (May–August): pots only about once every 3–4 weeks. Established Highveld garden plants need no winter water at all.
- Never let sprinklers spray into the crown — water sitting in the woolly centre causes crown rot. Water at the base, early in the day.
- Western Cape (winter rain): protect from constant winter wet and water deeply in the dry summer.
Feeding
- Use a balanced fertiliser (roughly equal nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) that also contains trace elements. Very high-nitrogen feeds give long, weak leaves that break in wind.
- Feed only in the growing season (spring and summer). A slow-release fertiliser applied once in spring is simplest. Stop about a month before the cold sets in.
- Never let fertiliser granules fall into the crown — they can burn and kill the growing point.
- Never mix stronger than the label says. Fresh chicken or cow manure burns roots; compost it first.
- Do not feed newly planted plants, rooting suckers or sick plants.
Fixing leaf colour
- A yellow band along the edges of the leaflets = magnesium shortage. Treat with a magnesium product such as Epsom salts (magnesium sulphate), at the rate on the pack.
- Yellowing that shows first on the newest leaves = iron shortage. Correct with an iron chelate, following the label.
- New leaves that come out yellow or white, then look withered or burnt = manganese shortage (called frizzle top in Cycas revoluta). Treat with manganese sulphate at the label rate.
- Light green or yellowish leaves overall = nitrogen shortage.
- Leaves already damaged by a shortage do not turn green again (except after iron or nitrogen shortage). Judge the treatment by the next flush.
- Yellowing with a soft stem is not hunger — see Stem rot.
4. Growing cycads in potsMost rot in potted cycads comes from the wrong pot or a mix that has broken down.
Choosing a pot
- Only a little wider than the root ball — about 5–10 cm all round. A pot that is too big holds wet soil around few roots.
- Drainage holes are essential. Stand the pot on pot feet so water can escape.
- Terracotta and cement dry out faster and suit people who tend to overwater; plastic and nursery bags hold water longer and are lighter.
- Dark pots in full sun can overheat the roots.
- Many cycads have a long taproot, so deep pots suit them better than wide, shallow bowls.
- Mark one side of each pot (for example, put the label on the west side). When you move the pot, turn it to face the same way so leaves used to shade don't sunburn.
Repotting
- Repot when roots fill or circle the pot, the mix drains slowly, or the plant becomes top-heavy — often every 2–4 years.
- Do it in late winter to early spring, before the new leaves.
- Go up one size at a time, use fresh gritty mix, and keep the stem base at the same height or slightly higher.
- Water lightly afterwards and keep it on the dry side for a few weeks while damaged roots heal.
Patios and balconies
- Most species need several hours of direct sun; a shaded balcony mainly suits shade species such as E. villosus.
- Pots dry faster in wind and heat, but still let the mix dry partly between waterings.
- Pots need more feeding than garden plants because nutrients wash out — use slow-release fertiliser at a reduced rate.
- Check weight limits before putting large pots on a balcony; wet soil and stone are heavy.
5. Garden design and placementChoose the final spot carefully — mature cycads are hard and risky to move.
Space and layout
- Allow for adult size. Many large Encephalartos spread 2–4 m across; small species need about 1 m.
- Plant spiny species 1–1.5 m back from paths, gates and play areas.
- A sunny wall helps against frost, but leave room for the leaves and air movement. Avoid spots where roof water pours onto the plant.
- Raised beds and rockeries give the drainage cycads need and show them off. Group plants with similar light and water needs.
Neighbours
- Good companions: aloes, succulents, indigenous grasses and other low-water plants.
- Avoid lawns with daily sprinklers and thirsty flower beds.
- Under trees: only shade species, and not too close to tree roots that compete for water and drop leaves into the crown.
6. Leaf care and protectionThe leaves feed the stem. Protect each new flush — it is a whole year's growth.
Trimming
- Remove leaves only once they are mostly brown. Green and yellowing leaves still feed the plant.
- Cut close to the stem with clean, sharp shears, leaving a short stub and the leaf bases.
- Tidying before showing or selling is common, but removing many green leaves weakens the plant — growers differ on how much is acceptable.
- Brush out dead leaf bases, old cones and debris where pests hide. Don't scrape living tissue.
- Remove spent male cones once they've shed pollen; this reduces pests.
Weather
- Soft new leaves are easily damaged for several weeks. Shield them from hail with shade cloth or a light frame, and don't touch or tie them.
- Strong wind breaks soft leaves and rocks young plants loose — stake new plants and use windbreaks in exposed coastal gardens.
- Frost: cover tender species on cold nights with frost cloth or hessian, or grow them against a north-facing wall.
7. Reading the plant — what the leaves tell youUse this table as a first check. When in doubt, ask an expert before treating.
Whole crown yellows quickly, stem soft
Common causes
Root or stem rot
First check
Press the stem; see Stem rot
Oldest (lowest) leaves slowly yellow and die
Common causes
Normal ageing, or plant drawing food for a new flush
First check
Is the rest of the plant firm and healthy?
Yellow band along the leaflet edges
Common causes
Magnesium shortage
First check
Feeding history; see Watering and feeding
New leaves pale yellow, older leaves green
Common causes
Iron or nitrogen shortage, or damaged roots
First check
Soil pH, drainage, feeding
Brown, dry leaflet tips
Common causes
Overwatering in pots, salty water, wind, dry air or fertiliser burn
First check
Drainage and watering pattern
Bleached or brown patches on the sunny side
Common causes
Sunburn, often after a move into stronger sun
First check
Recent move or a hot, still day
Black, collapsed soft leaves after a cold night
Common causes
Frost damage
First check
Night temperatures; protect the next flush
Small yellow spots or speckles
Common causes
Hail, or sap-sucking pests underneath
First check
Turn the leaf over for scale or aphids
White or brown crust on leaves
Common causes
Scale insects
First check
See Pests and diseases
White cottony tufts and black sooty mould
Common causes
Woolly aphid or mealybug, often with ants
First check
See Pests and diseases
Chewed new leaves
Common causes
Leopard magpie moth caterpillars, Christmas beetles
First check
Inspect at dawn and dusk
New leaf turns black at one spot and droops overnight
Common causes
Twig wilter bug
First check
See Pests and diseases
New leaves collapse as they emerge, especially in blue species
Common causes
Fungal disease (Colletotrichum) — newly recorded
First check
Isolate the plant; ask an expert
New leaves emerge yellow or white, then wither
Common causes
Manganese shortage (frizzle top)
First check
Soil pH; see Watering and feeding
Pale, long, floppy leaves
Common causes
Too little light
First check
Placement
New leaves short and stunted
Common causes
Cold-season growth, too little light or weak roots
First check
Season and placement
8. Removing and rooting suckersSuckers (offsets or pups) give a plant identical to the mother — same species, form and sex. This matters for species like E. woodii, of which only male plants exist. But a careless removal is a leading cause of cycad death.
When and which
- Late winter to early spring only — about August to October. Growth is about to start but the summer rains have not.
- Never during a soft leaf flush (on the sucker or the mother), and not in mid-winter.
- Western Cape growers often prefer late spring to early summer, once the rains stop — growers differ.
- Size: a stem of at least about 75–100 mm across (grapefruit size) with hard scales and several mature leaves. Walnut-sized suckers often fail because they don't store enough food to last months without roots. Leave small ones on the mother another season or two.
- Only take healthy, firm suckers — never from a plant with soft tissue, weevil holes or rot.
Step by step
- 1. Brush or gently hose away soil until the narrow neck where the sucker joins is fully visible.
- 2. Sterilise a sharp wood chisel, fine saw or knife with methylated spirits or a flame, and again between plants.
- 3. Make one clean, firm cut across the neck — a thin, wide chisel tapped with a rubber or wooden mallet works well. Never pry, twist or tear, and don't dig into the mother's stem. Roots on the sucker are usually damaged in removal; Whitelock cuts them back to the base and treats the cut with fungicide, because broken roots let in rot. Some growers keep healthy rootlets — growers differ.
- 4. Immediately cut off 70–100% of the sucker's leaves. A rootless sucker with a full crown dries out and shrivels within weeks.
- 5. Seal the mother's wound straight away with flowers of sulphur, a copper oxychloride paste or a pruning sealant — open wounds let in weevils and fungus. Keep her soil on the dry side for a few weeks.
- 6. Callus (non-negotiable): dust the sucker's cut with flowers of sulphur and stand it upright on a slatted shelf in a dry, warm (20–25°C), shaded, airy place for 10–14 days for small suckers, 2–4 weeks or longer for large ones, until the cut is hard and corky. Planting a fresh cut into damp soil is the most common fatal mistake.
- 7. Optional: dip the dry base in rooting hormone powder. Growers differ on how much it helps.
- 8. Plant the base 30–50 mm deep in 100% clean coarse washed silica sand, or a pumice and perlite mix — just deep enough to stand firm.
- 9. Keep barely damp, never wet. Bottom heat of 24–26°C speeds rooting. Bright shade, never direct sun.
- 10. Be patient: roots take 4–9 months, sometimes a year. Don't pull it up to check — you will break the new roots.
Warning signs
- A sucker may push new leaves before it has roots, using stored food. New leaves alone don't prove rooting — keep watering light until it resists a gentle tug or roots show at the drainage holes.
- If the stem starts to soften or wrinkle it is losing water faster than it roots: mist it lightly in the early morning and keep it in bright shade.
A removed sucker of a protected species is a new plant in law and needs its own permit before it can be sold. On Cycad Central, nursery sellers must load the plant's permit before a plant or sucker sale can close.
9. Stem rot: surgery and recoveryRot is the most common way cycads die. It spreads inside the stem, so a plant can look fine on top while dying underneath. Caught early, many plants can be saved; once the growing point in the crown is rotten, recovery is unlikely.
Recognise it early
Stem soft or spongy when pressed, especially near the soil
What it may mean
Rot in the base or roots — act now
Whole crown yellows or collapses at once, with wet soil
What it may mean
Root or base rot (not hunger)
Sour, fermented smell, dark ooze, or wet brown tissue
What it may mean
Active rot
Crown wobbles or leaves pull out easily
What it may mean
Rot in the crown — serious
Small holes in the stem or cone with brown dust
What it may mean
Weevil damage, often followed by rot
Older leaves yellow slowly, stem firm, soil dry
What it may mean
Usually not rot — check feeding, light, pests
Step by step
- 1. Stop watering, lift the plant and hose all soil off the roots and base.
- 2. With a sterilised spoon, gouge or sharp knife, cut away all brown, water-soaked, mushy tissue until only firm, crisp, white-to-cream tissue remains. Even a millimetre of brown left behind lets the rot restart. Wipe the blade with methylated spirits often.
- 3. Remove dead roots and collapsed leaves.
- 4. Rinse the wound with 3% hydrogen peroxide (pharmacy strength), then treat it with flowers of sulphur, copper oxychloride paste or a registered systemic fungicide, following the label.
- 5. Dry the plant bare-root in an airy, dry, shaded place for 2–3 weeks or longer, until every cut is rock-hard and dry.
- 6. Replant into dry, clean coarse sand, set high, and treat it like a sucker: little or no water until new roots form.
- 7. Check weekly. If soft tissue returns, clean it out again. Chemicals alone never save a rotting plant — the rotten tissue must be removed.
Prevention
- A mix that drains within seconds, and the stem base set just above soil level.
- Sprinklers off the crown, and less water in the cold months.
- Inspect the stem base and cones for holes or soft spots a few times a year.
- Let every cut or wound dry before it touches soil.
Call an expert for very large or valuable plants, rot that reaches the crown, or weevil damage. Some stems can still produce new shoots — don't give up without advice. Cycad Central members can ask the expert community in the app.
10. Pests and diseasesMost damage happens in the weeks after a leaf flush, while the new leaves are soft. Check often. In South Africa, only use products registered for that use under Act 36 of 1947 and always follow the label dose.
Leopard magpie moth (Zerenopsis leopardina)
What you see
A day-flying orange-and-black moth lays eggs on new leaves. Yellow-and-black caterpillars can eat a whole flush in 2–3 days.
What growers use
Prevent: dust soft new leaves with a registered insect dust as they emerge. Treat: a registered contact spray (pyrethroid such as cypermethrin or deltamethrin), Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) on young caterpillars, or a registered systemic such as imidacloprid. Hand-pick small numbers with gloves.
Stem borer weevils (snout beetles)
What you see
Adults puncture the stem to lay eggs; larvae tunnel inside and bring in rot. Holes, sawdust or ooze. Often fatal if missed.
What growers use
Very hard to control because the grubs tunnel inside. A registered systemic soil drench, following the label; spray cones with a registered contact spray; clean out damaged tissue as for stem rot. The Australian Tranes weevil has caused outbreaks in South Africa, and all Encephalartos appear highly susceptible. Watch any newly bought stem for borer holes for at least 6 months.
Scale insects (armoured and soft scale)
What you see
Crusts on leaf undersides and stalks. Leaflets yellow and die. Spreads fast through a collection.
What growers use
Horticultural oil spray at the label rate, in late afternoon or on an overcast day to avoid leaf burn. Insecticides must be applied at least three times, two weeks apart — the first kills adults, the next two kill young crawlers hatching from eggs the spray could not reach.
Woolly aphid and aphids
What you see
White cottony clusters on stalks and crown, sticky honeydew and black sooty mould. Ants farm them.
What growers use
Insecticidal soap or mineral oil spray; a registered systemic drench. Dust the ground around the base to break ant trails.
Twig wilter bug
What you see
Pierces soft leaf stalks; the leaf turns black at the spot and droops overnight.
What growers use
Prevention is the only cure — protect soft flushes. A damaged leaf can't heal and must be cut off.
Seed weevils
What you see
Small long-snouted weevils (Antliarhinus) drill into developing seed and the grubs eat the inside. Infested seed often looks normal but is lighter.
What growers use
There is no known control. Clean seed promptly; damaged seed is lighter and floats in water, so discard floaters.
Rot and fungal disease
What you see
Follows overwatering, poor drainage, buried stems or untreated wounds.
What growers use
Copper-based dusts or registered systemic fungicides help — but only together with cutting out the rot (see Stem rot).
Spraying safely
- Spray oils only in the cool early morning or late afternoon — oil in hot sun burns leaves.
- Wear gloves; keep children and pets away until sprays have dried.
- Older chemicals such as monocrotophos and parathion are banned — don't use old stock.
- If unsure which product to use, ask your nursery or an experienced cycad grower.
11. Hand-pollination and seedCycads are male or female. In gardens the natural pollinators (small beetles and weevils) are often missing, so collectors pollinate by hand.
Collecting and storing pollen
- A male cone is ready when it lengthens, the scales separate and fine yellow-cream dust falls when tapped.
- Most male cones shed their pollen within 3–5 days, so watch closely once the cone starts lengthening fast.
- Cut the cone just before or during shedding and lay it indoors on smooth clean paper. Tap it to release pollen and sieve out bits of cone.
- Store in a dry vial or envelope, sealed in a plastic box, in the fridge for up to several weeks. For long storage, dry the pollen first, then freeze it. Label with species, plant and date.
- Wear a dust mask — some people react to pollen.
Pollinating the female cone
- A female cone is ready when it swells and small gaps open between the scales, often near the top or along one side. This may last only days to two weeks — check often.
- A female is often receptive when a male of the same species, grown in the same conditions, sheds pollen — even if she shows no outward signs.
- Dry method: puff pollen into the gaps with a clean puffer bottle, or remove one scale near the top, pour pollen in and tap the cone.
- Wet method: mix pollen into about 30–60 ml of clean water with a drop of liquid soap (so the water soaks in instead of running off), and squirt it into the top gaps. For most species this works better than dry pollen.
- Blue-leaved Encephalartos: use the dry method only. In these species the wet method appears to make the seeds abort.
- Repeat every few days while the gaps are open. Record dates, species and pollen used.
- Crossing two species gives hybrids. Label hybrid seed clearly — it must never be sold as a pure species.
Harvesting and cleaning seed
- Encephalartos cones usually ripen about 4–9 months after pollination. The cone breaks apart from the top down over 10–30 days.
- Clean seed once the fleshy coat changes colour and softens. Wearing gloves, soak and scrub off the flesh — it is poisonous, and it holds back germination.
- Encephalartos embryos are often not fully grown when seed falls; they need up to about 4 more months before the seed can germinate.
- While they mature, store clean seed in a plastic bag with a little dry-to-slightly-damp peat moss, in a shady cupboard with a steady temperature. Some species keep up to a year in a fridge vegetable drawer.
- Weevil-damaged seed is lighter and floats. To check fertility, cut open two or three spare seeds and look for the embryo.
Seed of protected species is regulated. Keep records of the parent plants and their permits. Cycad Central seed listings show photos of the mother and father plant.
12. Seedlings — from germination to year 3A seedling's species is only as reliable as its parents. Keep a record of the mother and father for every batch.
Germination
Care
Never use garden soil. Press seed lengthwise about half-way into clean coarse sand, pumice or perlite — never bury it completely. Keep lightly moist, in at least 70% shade, with bottom heat of about 27°C. A wide-spectrum fungicide helps. The root comes out first and turns down; the first leaf follows weeks or months later.
Potting
Care
Pot when the root is about 2.5 cm long, into its own deep pot — shallow pots make the taproot spiral and push the seedling up. The young root is brittle; if one breaks, dip the end in fungicide powder and it usually heals in about 2 weeks. Keep the seed attached — it still feeds the seedling. Don't let the mix dry out in the first month.
Year 1
Care
Bright shade or filtered light. Water when the top of the mix dries. Very light feeding (diluted liquid fertiliser) once the leaves have hardened. Protect from snails, pests and frost.
Years 2–5
Care
Keep seedlings out of full sun for about 5 years — even desert species such as E. horridus — under 40–50% shade cloth. Once the stem is about the size of an orange it can move into full sun; some leaf burn is normal, and new leaves adapt. Move up a pot size when roots fill the pot.
Common losses
Care
Rot from overwatering, damping off, caterpillars eating the only leaf, frost, and small pots drying out in summer.
13. Growth expectationsCycads grow in flushes — a whole ring of leaves at once. Most garden Encephalartos flush once a year; fast species may flush twice and slow ones may skip a year. Stems often grow only a few centimetres a year.
E. natalensis, E. transvenosus
Growth
Fast for cycads
Flushes (typical)
1–2 a year
Notes
Large plants; need room
E. altensteinii, E. ferox
Growth
Moderate
Flushes (typical)
About 1 a year
Notes
E. ferox is frost tender
E. villosus
Growth
Moderate to fast
Flushes (typical)
About 1 a year
Notes
Shade; often suckers
E. horridus, E. trispinosus, E. lehmannii
Growth
Slow
Flushes (typical)
1 every 1–2 years
Notes
Full sun keeps the blue colour
E. latifrons, E. humilis
Growth
Very slow
Flushes (typical)
Irregular
Notes
Demanding; patience needed
Good to know
- Plants from seed usually take more than 10 years to cone, and longer for slow species. Good light, feeding and warmth shorten the wait.
- A plant's sex can only be told reliably once it cones. Suckers have the same sex as their mother.
- Stem size, not age, drives price on Cycad Central. Measure stem width and height the same way every time.
14. Bringing a new plant home — the first 30 daysA new plant is stressed from the move. Settle it slowly.
Day 1
What to do
Check the plant against its listing photos and certificate. Keep the permit, invoice and Cycad Central reference together. Inspect for pests and soft spots, and keep it away from your other plants for about 30 days in case it carries scale or weevils. Confirm receipt in the app.
Days 1–14
What to do
Bright shade or morning sun while it settles, especially if it came from a shadehouse. Leave it in its nursery container unless the mix is poor.
Days 7–30
What to do
Harden off: a little more sun every few days, over about 2–6 weeks. If bleached patches appear, step back.
Watering
What to do
Only when the mix is dry a few centimetres down. A bare-rooted or freshly planted cycad needs very little water until new roots form.
Planting out
What to do
Into its final spot once hardened off, ideally in spring, with the stem base at or just above soil level.
Feeding
What to do
Wait for new growth, or about 4–6 weeks after planting, then feed lightly.
15. Seasons, transplanting and moving houseBased on summer-rainfall areas (Gauteng, Limpopo, Mpumalanga, KwaZulu-Natal, Eastern Cape). In the Western Cape, shift watering to summer and expect growth timing to differ.
Through the year
August – September
Main tasks
Remove and pot suckers. Prepare beds. First light feed as growth starts. Check for scale and treat early. Male cones may start shedding pollen.
September – November
Main tasks
Main leaf flush. Protect soft leaves from leopard magpie moth caterpillars — inspect every few days. Don't handle or move flushing plants. Transplant before the flush starts.
December – February
Main tasks
Water deeply but not often in hot weeks if rain fails. Watch for rot after heavy rain. Second flush in some species; feed again lightly if needed.
March – April
Main tasks
Reduce watering. Last chance to transplant before the cold. Female cones maturing — check for seed weevils.
May – July
Main tasks
Coolest, driest months. Very little water for garden plants, pots only occasionally. Cover frost-tender species on cold nights. Harvest and clean ripe seed.
Moving a mature plant
- Only move a cycad if you really must. The stems are full of water, much heavier than they look, and bruise fatally when dug or dropped.
- Timing: late winter to early summer, before or after (not during) a leaf flush.
- Paperwork first: moving a protected cycad to another property or province may need a permit.
- Mark north: paint or chalk a mark on the north side of the stem and replant facing the same way. The south side has never had sun and can scald badly if turned to face north.
- If possible, trench around the root ball 2–3 months before lifting.
- Cut away about half of the oldest leaves to balance the lost roots.
- Dig wide and keep as much root as possible. Lift with padded straps, rubber mats or carpet around the stem — never chains, wire or rope directly on it.
- Let broken roots dry, then replant slightly proud (about 40–50 mm above soil level) in free-draining soil. Water once, then keep dry until new growth shows.
- Be patient: a moved or newly planted cycad can take up to a year to push new leaves.
Moving house
- Protected cycads need permits to possess, and moving them — especially between provinces — usually needs a transport permit. Contact your provincial nature conservation office well before moving day.
- Update the address on your permits and on Cycad Central so certificates stay valid.
- Packing: tie leaves loosely upright with soft ties, wrap the stem in sacking or bubble wrap, and wrap roots in damp (not wet) sacking for short trips. Lay large plants on their side on padding so they can't roll.
- Keep plants shaded — not in a hot closed vehicle or for hours on an open bakkie.
- On arrival, plant or pot as soon as possible in a sheltered spot and treat it as a newly moved plant.
16. Theft and securityCycad theft is a serious problem in South Africa. Good records make a stolen plant far easier to identify and recover.
Protect your plants
- Photograph every plant regularly from the same angles, including a close-up of the stem and any unique marks. Keep the photos with its Cycad Central reference.
- Microchip valuable plants — many provincial authorities and collectors use chips in the stem, and permits may record them. Have an experienced person insert them.
- Keep permits, invoices and certificates safe, with copies stored away from the property.
- Plant valuable specimens away from boundary walls and roads, out of public view. Consider lighting, cameras and alarms; some collectors anchor large plants.
If a plant is stolen, and buying safely
- Report it immediately to the police and your provincial nature conservation office, with photos, microchip number and permit details. Tell Cycad Central so the plant's reference can be flagged.
- Never buy a plant without a valid permit and a clear history. Freshly dug plants with cut roots, no paperwork or a suspiciously low price are warning signs.
- Cycad Central does not allow trade in wild-collected plants.
17. Advice by regionSouth Africa's climates differ enormously. Match species and care to where you live.
Highveld (Gauteng, Free State, high Mpumalanga)
Main challenges
Frost, dry winters, summer hail, heavy clay
Key advice
Raised beds; north-facing wall for tender species; cover new flushes from hail; frost-hardy species in open beds; no winter watering.
KwaZulu-Natal and coastal Eastern Cape
Main challenges
Humidity, heavy summer rain, leopard magpie moth, rot
Key advice
Excellent drainage and air flow; watch flushes closely for caterpillars; many green species thrive.
Western Cape
Main challenges
Wet, cold winters; dry summers; wind
Key advice
Summer-rainfall species sit wet in the cold — drain very well, plant on mounds, keep crowns dry in winter and water in summer. Use windbreaks.
Bushveld and Lowveld (Limpopo, low Mpumalanga, North West)
Main challenges
Heat, strong afternoon sun, dry spells
Key advice
Afternoon shade for green species; deep watering in dry spells; mulch with gravel.
Karoo and Northern Cape
Main challenges
Extreme heat and cold, very dry, alkaline soil
Key advice
Hardy blue species do best; water in dry summers; watch for iron and manganese shortage.
18. Poison safety for children and petsAll parts of a cycad are poisonous if eaten — especially the seeds and fresh new leaves. Keep seeds and cones away from children and pets, and pick up fallen seed promptly.
Why it is dangerous
- Cycasin: gut bacteria turn it into a substance (MAM) that destroys liver cells and damages the gut.
- BMAA: a toxin that attacks the nervous system, causing weakness, tremors and loss of balance.
- Dogs are most at risk: the brightly coloured, fleshy seed coat smells sweet and attracts them. Even one seed, or a piece of stem or root, can cause fatal liver failure.
- There is no antidote — fast treatment is what saves lives.
Signs of poisoning
- Repeated vomiting, usually within 2–6 hours.
- Drooling and diarrhoea, which may be dark or bloody.
- Weakness, tiredness, wobbling, tremors or seizures.
- Yellow eyes, gums or skin (jaundice) 24–48 hours later, as the liver fails.
What to do
- Children or adults: call the 24-hour Poisons Information Helpline on 0861 555 777, or go to the nearest emergency unit.
- Pets: go to a vet immediately — don't wait for symptoms. Vomiting induced by the vet within 1–2 hours, then activated charcoal, fluids and liver-protecting treatment, gives the best chance.
- Don't try to make a person or pet vomit at home unless a doctor, vet or the helpline tells you to.
- Take a piece of the plant or seed with you if you can.
Prevention
- Remove or fence off female cones as seed ripens; store sowing seed in sealed containers out of reach.
- Wear gloves when cleaning seed and wash hands afterwards.
- Keep spiny species away from play areas and paths.
Poisons Information Helpline (24 hours, free): 0861 555 777. Backup lines: Red Cross Children's Hospital +27 21 658 5308, Tygerberg +27 21 938 9596.
Compare the species
Indicative retail ranges per centimetre of caudex diameter are calculated from completed sales and auction results on Cycad Central. Until enough sales have been recorded they show as R0.
| Species | Growth rate | Light | Frost | Indicative price per cm | To grow |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Encephalartos horridusEastern Cape blue cycad | Slow One flush every 1-2 years | Full sun | Light frost once established | R0 / cm | Moderate |
| Encephalartos lehmanniiKaroo cycad | Slow One flush a year in good sun | Full sun | Frost hardy to about -4 °C | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos trispinosusBushman's River cycad | Slow Compact, slow, suckers freely | Full sun | Light frost | R0 / cm | Moderate |
| Encephalartos altensteiniiBreadtree | Moderate Two flushes a year when fed | Sun to half shade | Light frost | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos natalensisNatal giant cycad | Fast Fastest of the large species | Sun to half shade | Light frost | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos feroxZululand cycad | Moderate Steady growth in warm gardens | Half shade to sun | Frost tender | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos princepsKei cycad | Moderate Blue-grey leaves, steady grower | Full sun | Light frost | R0 / cm | Moderate |
| Encephalartos transvenosusModjadji cycad | Fast Tall and quick in frost-free gardens | Full sun | Frost tender when young | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos woodiiWood's cycad | Moderate Male clones only; suckers offset | Sun to half shade | Light frost | R0 / cm | Demanding |
| Encephalartos latifronsAlbany cycad | Slow Very slow; critically endangered | Full sun | Light frost | R0 / cm | Demanding |
| Encephalartos villosusPoor man's cycad | Fast Reliable, shade-loving starter plant | Shade to half shade | Light frost | R0 / cm | Easy |
| Encephalartos humilisDwarf cycad | Slow Small container subject | Full sun | Frost hardy | R0 / cm | Moderate |
Suggested plant prices on this app will be determined by actual plant sales and auction results on Cycad Central, worked out as averages. Prices are guidance only, not a valuation. Every plant on Cycad Central carries its own permanent reference, standardised measurements and expert verification record.
Sources
This guide was put together from the following trusted sources. Where growers differ, we give the common practice.
- Cynthia Giddy, Cycads of South Africa — growing, suckers and propagation.
- Douglas Goode, Cycads of Africa — species, habitats, light needs and the leopard magpie moth.
- Loran M. Whitelock, The Cycads (Timber Press) — soil, water, feeding, nutrient shortages, pests, suckers, pollination, seed and seedlings.
- IUCN/SSC Cycad Specialist Group, cycad handbook and decision table — frost, flood and transplant tolerance, pollen, hand-pollination, seed storage and germination.
- S. R. Cousins and E. T. F. Witkowski, "African Cycad Ecology, Ethnobotany and Conservation", Botanical Review 83 (2017) — pollination, seed and weevil ecology.
- CYCADS, newsletter of the IUCN/SSC Cycad Specialist Group (December 2018 and December 2019).
- N. Grobbelaar, Cycads — with special reference to the southern African species (2002).
- J. Donaldson (ed.), Cycads: Status Survey and Conservation Action Plan, IUCN (2003).
- Dr A. J. Cilliers, Agricultural Research Council (ARC) — cycad pests, diseases and their control.
- South African National Biodiversity Institute (SANBI) PlantZAfrica and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden — species information and care.
- Cycad Society of South Africa (CSSA) — Encephalartos journal and grower guidance.
- National Environmental Management: Biodiversity Act, TOPS regulations and provincial nature conservation offices — permits, transport and microchipping.
- Poisons Information Centre, Red Cross War Memorial Children's Hospital (University of Cape Town), and Tygerberg Poison Information Centre (Stellenbosch University) — poisoning advice and the 0861 555 777 helpline.
- Fertilizers, Farm Feeds, Agricultural Remedies and Stock Remedies Act 36 of 1947 — rules on registered garden chemicals.
- Published veterinary toxicology on cycad (sago palm) poisoning in dogs — symptoms and emergency treatment.